Overview

I can’t figure out how BMW Motorrad matches the ergonomics of a particular motorcycle model to their target rider’s average physical characteristics. For example, the S1000RR is designed for a shorter rider who doesn’t mind craning their neck to see the road ahead. Riders taller than 170cm (5ft 5in) need not apply. The K1300S is a much heavier bike–necessarily assuming a larger rider–but it is only slightly less forgiving for taller riders in terms of lean forward handlebar and short foot peg positions. That is why I had to modify the K1300S’ height of the handlebars and footpegs.

Then, there is the S1000XR. Even though I am 190cm (6 ft 3 in) tall, I found myself on my tippy toes at stop lights. Shorter riders necessarily are in a worse position, ergonomically. For many reasons, the S1000XR is a fantastic bike both on the highway and off road. However, virtually all riders will have a better riding experience if you lower the height of the S1000XR from the original design.

This article by Jerry Skene explains how to do so using an adjustable lowering link kit from Soupy’s Performance.

–Mike

Tools Needed

• 2 x 19mm open ended wrenches
• 19mm socket with extension
• T55 bit with extension
• T40 bit with extension
• Calipers
• Tape measure
• Floor jack to raise the rear wheel

Replacing the Dogbone

Place the bike on the center stand and measure the stock wheel position. I did this by measuring the distance from the top of the rear wheel nut to the hand rail. I affixed a piece of tape on the side rail and marked the 25” point to simplify things. I wanted to drop the bike 2.5cm (1in) , so the target was 24”.

On the S1000XR, it is very difficult to gain access to the front lock nuts on the Soupy turnbuckles after they are installed. For this reason, I recommend that you preadjust them before installation rather than adjusting them after installation. The following measurements are for a 2.5cm (1in) drop.

If you want a different drop amount, you can leave the turnbuckle adjustment where it is but loosen the lock nuts before installation. Install the turnbuckles as described below and adjust each long turnbuckle nut the same amount until the desired drop is achieved. You can then pull the mounting bolts out, remove the turnbuckles, tighten the lock nuts, then reinstall the turnbuckles.

Loosen each of the 2 lock nuts on each turnbuckle using a pair of 19mm wrenches. For a 2.5cm (1in) drop, unscrew each end so that the distance measured from the end of each of the long turnbuckle nuts to the inside ridge of the outer bearing rings is 51mm. This can be measured with a standard Vernier caliper using the inside measurement fingers.

Make sure that the ends are parallel and tighten the lock nuts.

With the bike on the center stand, slightly raise the rear wheel to remove tension on the dogbone bolts. I did this by placing a board parallel to the bike under the rear wheel and lifted the front end of the board with a low-profile floor jack.
Remove the nut from right end of the rear dogbone bolt using an 18mm wrench. The bolt turns freely and so needs to be held on the other end with another 18mm wrench or a socket with an extension. Pull out the bolt.

Remove the front bolt using a T55 torx driver. This bolt can be accessed under the rear brake lever.

Remove the stock suspension dogbone casting. First lower the rear wheel in order to provide sufficient clearance between the rear suspension arm and the shock mount.

Insert the machined spacer provided in the Soupy’s kit between the ends of each turnbuckle, and slide this into place where the front bolt was removed. Apply thread locker to the front bolt and slide it into place through the two turnbuckle ends and the spacer. Tighten to 100Nm.

Raise the rear wheel so that the hole in the rear suspension piece lines up with the rear ends of the turnbuckles. Apply threadlocker to the rear bolt and slide this through the left side. Install nut and tighten to 100Nm.

Lowering the Front Suspension

To keep the bike’s suspension in balance, the front end must be lowered by the same amount as the rear.

Loosen the 3 pinchbolts on each front fork with a T40 torx bit. Raise the rear wheel a bit as described above to put force on the front wheel and raise each fork tube in the triple clamp the required amount by twisting it from below while pulling it upward. The change in fork height can be determined by measuring the change in distance between the top surface of the fork nut and the top surface of the triple clamp using a caliper. The stock distance on my bike was 7mm. I raised each fork 28mm resulting in a new nut-to-triple clamp distance of 35mm.

Tighten the pinch bolts to 19Nm after ensuring that the side reflectors attached to the forks (on US bikes) are still pointing to the side. The chain seemed a bit tighter after lowering, so I readjusted it.

Other Considerations

After lowering your S1000XR, the kickstand length remains unchanged. Therefore, your S1000XR will be at a higher angle when parked on the kickstand. For this reason, you should use a centerstand, particularly if you are parking your S1000XR on an incline. Otherwise, you run an increased risk of your bike toppling over.

Updated on February 2nd, 2020